What would be the best strut/spring combination to use on a cavalier that would pass a Stock inspection? Also is there an advantage to removing the front swaybar or adding a rear swaybar?
it all depends on a LOT of factors..what is your car doing now..there are SO many ways to go.. different diameters of sway bars.. different lengths of sway bar levers.. so you can actually tune the left and right side differently.. if you used a pair of sway bars.. you could do something really trick.. you could preload the suspension with them.. i used to do this with 4 way brand shocks with the coil overs that had slip collars on them.. i put the coils in tension.. by running one front wheel at a time up on a specific sized block.. loosened the collar and let it slide down.. tightened it there..then put the other front wheel on the block.. and slid that collar down.. in case you never saw a 4 way shock.. the coil overs were NOT flattened.. the ends of the coils wound directly into a pair of half shells that were adjustable. indy cars use a similar feature on their pushrod rocker suspensions.. look at their coil overs shocks that push on the rocker levers.. you will see that there is a third coil shock pushing the other way.. s the springs are NEVER allowed to be completely UNLOADED.. this is like running a much stiffer spring rate.. but without the rides like a brick like effect. or the lack of suspension movement .. could you use something like a air brake slack adjuster. to allow easy rotation of the 3/4 length sway bars.. probably..this would also allow you to buy a second sway bar.. cut one end off and grind or spline the bar to a hex so it will fit in the slack adjusters .. think of a plymouth volare suspension with transverse torsion bars.. and as long as nobody else reads this.. they will think that you are tuning with the sway bar.. it will really really help a LOT.. you car is still suspended on the coil springs.. but the sway bars compress the suspension.. left and right sides could be different. all the rest depends on you.. the rest of your set up.. if you can get away with it.. what type of track surface and banking.. how many chicks you cart around in the back seat of your car. this really does work..oh.. and how to make it fit.. one slack adjuster pointed rear.. the other pointed forward.. since they are bolted to the either the outside or inside of the frame rail... might even stash them inside the frame rail in a cavity you create out of rectangular tubing with a side cut out..
hint.. since the slack adjusters are splined.. if the spline final size of the spline OD you can take a splined section of brake S shaft and have it center drilled.. then make the center an oval cut to match the hand ground oval shape on the end of your sway bar cut off end. less chance of creating fracture lines with going from round bar to oval.. or even than going to hex..