Can anyone out there help me set up a 88 celica to go around a 1/4 mile mid banked clay oval. I bought a race ready celica to race next year. Can anyone help me with weight percentages that I'm looking for, caster/camber settings etc. Any info will help as I can't seem to find anything to read that will help set up a FWD. Thanks
I've ran fwd for 3 years now always a top 5 car I ran a probe Now I cant give you exact settings cause i didnt have scales or camber gauges but this is what i did to the front: drill out strut mounting holes on right side about 1\4 inch towards the left with just a slight angle towards the front of car about 1\8 inch or so. do the same on left side but angle towards the rear but drill holes out towards the left fender. i also added 78 lbs over left rear tire and adjusted rear steer in the alighnment as far as it would go ihope this helps i got some tips on your right front tire so you will never roll it off the bead also but i'll have to figure out how to explain it in writing later
Thanks for the info. From what I have seen at the speedway most of the cars push badly up the corner so loosening the car up seems to be the way to go if possible, rear steer should defenatly help. What benefit did you get from adding weight over the left rear?? Just curious what this did for the handling?Thanks
well at my track the left rear tire would come off the ground about 6 inches or so,which almost everybody thought that was good cause it would load the front right tire for more traction in the turns, which was true if you had the diff welded. but I was tryin to be different and of coarse find the edge . and what I found with doin that made the car come off the corner faster cause the car wasnt rollin to the right taken weight off the left front as much so it didnt just spin and not pull comin off the corner. and in the middle of the corners the rear would slide with both rear tires on the ground instead of the left lifting and the right rear diggin which makes the car push. I had my car set up real lose compared to everyone else at the track it looked like a stock car or mod in the corners it would set sideways and fly Just make sure you make any changes one at a time so you can record how it changed the car. And you may already know this but with the car set up loose bein Fwd dont over correct when sideways just a small amount of counter steer or even just turn the wheel straight and mash it to the floor cause the rear will follow the front tires sometimes its hard to do it but it really helps let me know how ya do if ya try this stuff I relly hope it helps ya out, I'm movin up to a northern sport mod due to the track droppin the Fwd class this year. If ya got any other questions I'll do my best to help ya if I know how
Eagle... I read what you had to say about adding weight to the left rear and i'm curious. i used to run a probe but now I run a cavalier. Did that really stop the car from pushing? how about on a dry slick track? Our track gets pretty black by feature time and we do everything we can to get the weight off the left rear. How big was the track?
Seems like Eagle had some prety good advice. I was hoping he'd respond with some more advice.
It's been awhile since I've been on here the computer went down if ya all still look here about your cavalier its harder to put rear steer in em cause of the straight axle in the rear but what you really need to do is get rid of the stock spindle on the right rear they tend to break and cause severe roll overs go to your local trailer shop and get a heavy duty trailer spindle to replace it with it takes a good parts guy to match it all up but there is a few that will bolt right up and won't break under the heavy loads, As for a bead lock for the right front get some 3\8 cold roll rod bend it to fit the wheel diameter on the inside of the tire bead, mount the tire and air it up to set the beads, then break down the back side of the tire put the cold roll in the wheel against the outside bead but inside the wheel then put some tack welds on the cold roll to the wheel all the way around make the welds big enough to hold but small enough you can cut the welds off if ya need to replace the tire its a pain but you won't roll that tire off when ya take the lead on the last lap then loose it goin into turn 3 like I did, as for the size track I ran it was a 3\8 mile
Also if you put your biggest tire on the driverside front, your smallest tire on the passenger front you get alot better grab and acceleration in the corner. Also put a bigger tire on the outside rear for better rear end control. I run a p205/75 on the driver front and a p195/65 on the outside front. Hope this helps
I'm currently running a Probe on a 1/4 mid bank asphalt, and I'm having a problem that maybe you can help with. My car launches coming off the corners and can hold just about any line on the track, but for some reason on entry it's breaking loose, BAD. I messed with tire pressures, sway bar, tire sizes... nothing seems to help. I'd like to be able to dive into the corner, as that's the best way to pass at our track, but I lose it almost every time unless I slow way down. Are there any adjustments you can think of?Currently I run 175/65 on the left side, 185/70 on the right. Tire pressures = LF30, LR25, RR20, RF35. We are allowed just 3/4 RF camber. These are the settings I've always used for max performance, but since a wreck last year it's been loose, even after replacing all bent/broken components. I'm at a loss, does anyone have a suggestion?My facebook is www.facebook.com/lowracin if you'd like to contact me there.
I just realized Google took me to the Dirt forum. I re-posted my question in 4cyl asphalt, but maybe a Probe racer here has an idea...
maybe you have too much air pressure in the inside tires i think, try 25 on LF, and 20 on LR with a good sidewalled tiresthis is what we run in a civic hatchback and the other 4 cyl, cars run apprx the same at oysterbed speedway in prince edward island canada! good luck!
karma in racing, help out; get help...bump n grind; get wrecked!
What about locking the front diff together, what is the safest way to do that
weightdoes NOT transfer lr to rf it transfers from left side to right side, hope this helps
For not breaking the bead on the pas front. First buy an inner tube, and use a lot of baby powder. The bp will stop the friction between the tube and tire. I blew out tires all the time til I made the switch. By the way, I never use bead lock when using the tubes. I hope this helps. I run a grand prix gtp.
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