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Geo prizm slow through corners

  
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Geo prizm slow through corners

 
4MattRusch 4MattRusch
I watched NASCAR once | Posts: 8 | Joined: 04/13
Posted: 04/04/13
06:59 AM

i race a 1993 geo prizm ya your probably saying right now, "what a prizm!" but its actually really quick i usually place in to top 10 in enduros in wisconsin. on to the problem now my geo is great on take offs thanks to it being the 1.8L but im haveing corner trouble i enter the corner perfectly right where the car doest push or get to tight.  but recently i have had people passing me as i exit the corner what can i do to get my car through the corners faster? any suggestions help!  

waynep712222 waynep712222
I’ve been to a few races | Posts: 56 | Joined: 04/13
Posted: 04/07/13
04:25 PM

fuel injected i take it..

how fresh is the fuel filter..

how much current is the fuel pump drawing?? got a Digital volt meter with an amp setting or a harbor freight store nearby.. just less than 7 amps is what most draw..

changed the engine oil lately???

fresh spark plugs cap and rotor...

ohmed the spark plug wires... max is 1,000 ohms per inch..  set meter to 200K ohms..

inspected the ignition coil for signs of high voltage leakage out the sides...  tested the coil output with one of the under 10 buck coil output testers that almost every parts store has.. jumps a gap to a threaded stud with a gator clip hooked to ground...

how is your front suspension bushings and tie rod ends...

are the front wheels going toe in when you mash the gas pedal and the toe in slowing down your corner exit...

when was the last time you had the alignment checked..


automatic transmission i am taking it..

when was the last time you did a transmission service with a new filter and fresh pan gasket and ATF???

when was the last time you checked the timing belt tension and cam/crank timing belt alignment???

when was the last time.. if you have fuel injection.. that you either cleaned the fuel injectors your self.. with a wiring connector a momentary button and a 9 volt battery  with some brake cleaner thru adaptors to hose pushed over the inlet. .. or sent them out for proper cleaning on a machine..

so many things... so many secrets on how to get a car to leave the corner faster than everybody else..  

4MattRusch 4MattRusch
I watched NASCAR once | Posts: 8 | Joined: 04/13
Posted: 04/08/13
06:57 AM

yes it is fuel injected and it has a brand new fuel filter the pump is actually a higher out put pump with more pressure for performance and tie rods are new both side both side ball joints are new all rubber bushings are new since last year cap and rotor are new coil is high out put new sparkplugs wires and this car is a 5 speed with a newer clutch and timing belt has been replaces as soon i i got the car 2 years ago and the injectors have been sent out and cleaned acutally only about 3 weeks ago i just cant seem to get the car to keep the speed through the corner if i had a way to keep the speed no one would be able to keep up with me. Grin  

4MattRusch 4MattRusch
I watched NASCAR once | Posts: 8 | Joined: 04/13
Posted: 04/09/13
07:14 AM

anyone who reads this please list anykind of help you can i have a race this comeing saturday april 13th and i start in the front great right.  well i wont be able to hold my line on turn one and two because the banking on my track isnt as high as on turn 3 and 4 any to make this car fast through the first turn helps alot thanks!!!  

waynep712222 waynep712222
I’ve been to a few races | Posts: 56 | Joined: 04/13
Posted: 04/09/13
07:26 PM

what about checking the ECM codes..

OBD DIAGNOSTIC LINK CONNECTOR 1993 Geo Prizm 1.6L MFI DOHC 4cyl The OBD Diagnostic Link Connector is located: Front seating area, passenger side, under dash, above kick panel, mounted rear of glove compartment

do you know how to access them????

do you have a digital volt meter  so you can monitor the oxygen sensor output voltage waveforms...  see if your oxygen sensor are sluggish and need replacing.. it does control the air fuel ratio with the engine...

if you don't have a manual that covers just what to do to check codes... let me know...

i am also taking that there are NO cats on the car...

do you have a vacuum gauge you could hook to an intake manifold sources... see if when you raise the engine speed slowly that the manifold vacuum does NOT DECREASE..

if the manifold vacuum drops.. then you have a restriction in the exhaust system...

do you still have the EGR hooked up???

toyotas use a exhaust back pressure transducer.. that needs some back pressure coming up the EGR tube to push the diaphragm upward to close off the big vacuum leak.. there is a small calibrated vacuum leak to modulate the EGR flow...

hook a TEE into the end of your vacuum gauge and hook it right into the vacuum hose to the  egr diaphragm..

as you drive the car.. you should see vacuum readings from the gauge... as the vacuum pulls the diaphragm upward opening some exhaust flow into the intake manifold..

wait.. why??   there is around 21% oxygen in atmosphere.... in exhaust oxygen content is 13 or 14%..  only the oxygen can cause combustion with the fuel mixture..

if you don't have EGR FLOW... during wide open throttle when the system is operating in OPEN loop.. you will have TOO MUCH percentage of oxygen for the amount of fuel the computer is spraying in... so the engine will go lean.. usually knocks and pings also..  this will reduce horsepower also...

if the system was working properly .. the EGR flow lowers the percentage of oxygen content and reduces the air fuel ratio needs... this gets the owner better fuel economy.. lowers the combustion temps below 2600F where Oxides of Nitrogen form NOX...  so the cats don't have to scrub and convert as much..

if it works perfectly.. great..  but in open loop.. which happens at full throttle... the computer sends injector pulse width that expects a working EGR System.. if its not working..  it goes lean and melts pistons..

you will also want to verify that the EGR valve is not clogged by applying vacuum to the vacuum fitting ..  it should stall the motor at idle when you apply vacuum..  

4MattRusch 4MattRusch
I watched NASCAR once | Posts: 8 | Joined: 04/13
Posted: 04/10/13
07:45 AM

there is no problems with the engine and nothing is throwing any codes at me when i put my scaner on it. it isnt an engine or drive train problem i just need help with how to set the rear tires and how i toe in and toe out tires and with the camber.

is there anything i can do to the cars set up that will make it faster is what im asking.  

waynep712222 waynep712222
I’ve been to a few races | Posts: 56 | Joined: 04/13
Posted: 04/11/13
10:28 PM

do you own an infrared non contact thermometer?

Image 20980

these range from 25 to 40 bucks..

measure the tire temps..  across the tread of the tires..   see if you alignment is off for the set up you have...

could your wheel bearings be wearing.. allowing the rotors to kick over into the brake pads .??

could your compression be down... because those motors were assembled with low tension second and oil control rings..  

4MattRusch 4MattRusch
I watched NASCAR once | Posts: 8 | Joined: 04/13
Posted: 04/12/13
06:53 AM

it is not low on compression this engine has went through a rebuild last spring and has great compression and i am going to get that thermometer thanks for the tip.  

Alar51 Alar51
I watched NASCAR once | Posts: 2 | Joined: 04/13
Posted: 04/21/13
04:30 AM

Front wheel drive cars have unique issues in racing. The weight distribution, that is something like 65F / 35R makes setup a big challenge. Many think that loading the front right is the key, but that may not be the answer, because you do not take advantage of the about one third of turning power that the front left will give in the turn. I have run a bunch of various FWD cars over the past seven years on the local 1/4 mile paved oval. I have found that for my driving style, getting the FL to work gives much more speed at turns 2 and 4. While most anyone else attempts to get more right camber by minimizing the tire pressure on the left to almost as if flat, I run close to the same pressure on both fronts. And set the camber so both fronts are parallel when looking at the wheels from the front. About 1/8 inch toe out seems to work well. If your rules allow, you may also want to experiment with removing the front sway bar to allow the front left to drop and provide more traction. Now you have front end traction, and may be very loose. So ad camber to the rear right. If your rules allow tire mixing, the rear right may be the big tire. The rear left does almost nothing on an oval, so that tire can be made as small as possible to get more weight onto the front left. But all of this is useless if you enter turns 1 and 3 too fast. And that may be why you are slow at turn exit. If you enter to fast, much of the braking is from scrubbing heat into the tire, and thereby reducing traction from an overheated front right. So you are way out in end of turns 2 and 4, and the fast cars pass below you. My fast laps come from braking just before entry of 1 and 3. That allows for full acceleration through 2 and 4. This maximizes the speed on the straights, where you want it. And before even beginning to adjust your setup, this driving style will not only save you tires, but also gain positions. Early braking means early acceleration, predictable handling and quick lap times.