I have a 97 cavalier 2.2L dirt oval car. The car will turnover and start for about a second and then die. I have raced many times and it ran fine, I washed it, with it running, and stayed clear of the computer. I shut it off after cleaning and an hour later I tried to start it and it shut right off after about a second. I have checked the fuel pump and its fine. The dash is disconnected other then the security system. there are no lights on the dash that show security icons. any information will be greatly appreciated. thank you!
oh... i have been here before... oh no not again...did you wash the door jams area under the doors..????there are ground Junction blocks under there... where a bunch of female quick connects push onto a tabbed bar... but wait it gets better.. instead of that bar being grounded.. the end wire goes along and comes out under the drivers seat on the drivers side and the passenger seat on the passenger side.. you will need to examine the tabbed bar and the connections for signs of burning.. the ones under the seats are usually not an issue.. its the ones down in the door jams under the plastic and carpet.. please also check the fuel pump ground connection along the outside edge of the floor of the trunk... please don't just look.. take these connections apart and EXAMINE. them use a stainless steel wire tooth brush to do any cleaning.. this is just the first place to check.. as missing or loose ground wires will really do things in.. i will have to find a 92 jbody ground location diagram..there are also relays under the hood.. i know this engine has no distributor .. do you still have a timing light in your tool box.??? hook it up to the spark plug wires.. have somebody start the engine while you hold the trigger on.. and are looking toward the flashing end..when the engine fires up. and then dies... does the ignition system still cause the timing light to flash until the engine stops turning.. does the ignition key have a resistor in it... and if so.. do you own a digital volt meter.. if you have a radio shack. i should be able to help you bypass the ignition key resistor.. for about 10 bucks..
bypassing the VATS in key resistor...OHM the resistor pellet in the key.. one side to the other.. write this down.. at radio shack there are 15 turn 10K Ohm trimmer pots..you can also pick up the smallest size of european style terminal block from radio shack also.. hook your ohm meter to the first and second or second and third lead out the side.. NOT THE FIRST and THIRD.. once you get it adjusted to read the same as the resistor pellet in the key...cut off a 3 block section of the european style terminal block.. push it over the same 2 wire terminals out the side of the trimmer. screw the set screws down...get under your dash.. find the ORANGE harness with 2 small white wires.. cut it.. strip the dash board side of the harness back.. push the ends into the european style terminal block over the pins you have measured.. tighten the set screws.. you now have the perfect resistance to bypass the VATS key wiring.. less than 10 bucks plus gas to get there.. 10K-Ohm 15-Turn Cermet Potentiometer/TrimmerModel: 271-343 | Catalog #: 271-343$2.99
now.. back to the testing...if the spark continues till the engine comes to a complete stop... when it stalls..do you have a fuel pressure gauge??? can you verify the fuel pressure is still there..do you have a test light.. put the pointy end into/onto the fuel pump fuse...when you turn the key on.. the fuel pump fuse should have power for 2 seconds.. then again while cranking.. if the fuel pump fuse looses power before the engine comes to a stop... pull the fuel pump relay.. gently remove the outer cover from the relay... put the bare relay back in.. push the contacts closed with a tip of a screw driver to send constant power to the fuel pump.. see if the engine continues to run.. on these and most other gm fuel injected motors.. there is an orange wire to the fuel pump relay. but also to the three wire oil pressure switch.. thats hot all the time... when the key is turned on.. the ECM closes the fuel pump relay for 2 seconds to prime the system.. then closes again while you are cranking... and will keep the fuel pump relay contacts closed when the engine is running...but the 3 wire oil pressure switch is in parallel with the relay.. as a back up.. the outer 2 wires are for the fuel pump circuit.. the center wire is for the oil pressure gauge or light.. when the oil pressure comes up .. a contact bar comes up and bridges the 2 outer terminals.. sending power to the oil pump while there is oil pressure.. these oil pressure switch contacts get dirty...and force all the load of the fuel pump onto the tiny pins of the relay... causing the terminals in the relay socket to expand and melt the plastic... causing failure.. yes.,.. this is the same system thats on GM pickup trucks.. a quick test i use.. either with a test light on the fuel pump fuse.. or with the engine running is to pull the fuel pump relay.. if the engine continues to run.. the oil pressure switch is good.. if the engine dies.. well.. change the oil pressure switch.. before it leaves you stranded.. all the GM pickup owners i know carry a spare fuel pump relay under the relay box cover.. so its ready to swap...
now.. to see if the computer is shutting off the fuel injectors..most parts stores have NOID / fuel injector test light kits in the loan a tool section.. harbor freight also sells them in a kit...pull an injector connector.. plug the noid light into the end of the removed injector connector.. start the engine.. again.. does the light stay flashing until the engine comes to a complete stop??? or does it stop flashing at the instant the engine quits firing.. but before it stops turning..