Being new to the 4 cylinder, especially EFI, I have to run the stock efi and stock ignition system in this dual plug 2.3L Ford engine. Has anyone dealt with trying to adjust these engines within the computers range without it acting out of wack in tuning?
well.. hello again...you are going to need some serious understanding of the EECIV fuel injection systems..you are going to want to read up on this neat machine...http://www.racesystems.com/sneeciv/sneec.htmyou will also want to pick up an EECIV ford training manual if you can find one.. they are not easy to find as they have not been printed in 18 years.. there is also a site called oldfuelinjection dot com.. you will want to read up thru..the ford EEC4 system goes thru self tests... if it fails the self tests.. it backs off the power to save the engine.. EGR flow is important to power output. why???in closed loop the computer verifies the operation of the EGR valve as it opens the EGR SOL and forces the EGR valve open fairly far.. it looks at the changes in the oxygen sensor for proof that the EGR flow is there... if it does not pass this test.. it backs off the power.. along with air injection tests.. using the TAB and TAD solenoids to open the diverter valve to the upstream air where it can be monitored by the computer via changes in the exhaust flow..why is EGR flow important.. in open loop.. which is where the computer operates with heavy throttle.. the ECM depends on the EGR flow to be there.. the egr flow in the intake air charge reduces the amount of oxygen in the incoming air stream.. reducing the need for fuel.. so the computer leans out the fuel mixture during open loop heavy throttle operation.if the EGR flow is not there. the engine is going to ping. and the air fuel ratio is going to be LEAN...this is really complicated.. and i don't do tuning on EEC4 systems.. i just put them back together.. so i understand how the factory set them up..
Hey Wayne, hope everything is going well for you!So pretty much Wayne I am leaving the emissions on to make the best power from what it looks like?Thank you for the reply!! I actually have a EEC driveability diagnosis book I wonder how different that will be from a EEC4? Again I don't have the time right now to go through to see what this book tells but I do have something from 1986 EEC related etc. I will check for a specific EEC4 though too.
86 book will be EEC4...there are slight variations between each year..its very hard to use the incorrect year book and get anywhere beyond codes...the systems work alike... but the diagnostic printed info may be different.. or start at a different place...a few things you will want to search out...a set of test clips with teeth like this.. so you can test right thru the insulation...if you don't end up with one of the data boxes like above.. or a EEC4 break out box.. rotunda , OTC and thexton units were around.. still pop up on craigs and swap meets.. so you can measure the various circuit..you will also want a decent automotive digital volt meter.. one that also displays Ms... millisecond.. and HZ... hertz.. cycles per second.. if you have a junk yard nearby.. hit the import section and look in volvos and saabs... for connectors that look like male and female versions of the fuel injector connectors.. buy both halves.. think antilock brakes and a few on the ignition control area... this will give you the ability to make an injector break out harness to measure the millisecond pulsewidth.. leave as much pigtail as you can... connect the wire ends with female bullet connectors... so you can clip into them easily.. or extend with male bullet connectors and more wire...1.2 to 1.4MS injector pulse width shows you are in idle program...there are also bosch III injectors with tiny holes in the plate that flow MUCH better at longer open percentages... by the way.. there is a forum online called turbo bricks.. deal with volvo turbos... they have found that the 83 thru 85 5.0 CFI throttle body fuel injectors with the blue color flow 59 pounds per hour.. the 5.0HO grey top versions flow 62... the green 3.8 versions only flow 38... verses the 16 or 24 pounds you have.. yes.. it takes a custom adaptor to mount them to your fuel rail.. but its a cheep way to get more fuel...i would imagine that it might be illegal for some classes if not all classes.. did you see the 2 or 3 sections of the 2.3 engine build here in the tech section???? there was also an article in one of the magazines about a guy with a turbo 2.3... and he selected a cam from a 91 ranger 2.3 as that one had the most lift and duration.. but he was running a turbo motor..
oh... eec4 started around 1984.. and ended in 1995 or so.. when everything became EECV and OBD2...i think eecv came just before OBD2... but i will have to check on that...
I will have to check on that article and forum as well. Thank you very much for the insight and information Wayne! I have quite a list to get done on this ranger right now. I hope to get started on tear down this weekend on the body and chassis.
I know I will be changing head-bolts to head-studs for sure.
some 2300 stuffhttp://www.circletrack.com/sch/02/esslinger/articles/you might enjoy ...
Here is Melling's cam MC835, 1991 Ranger 2wd. O'reilly & Autozone are the same price. I haven't checked the aftermarket performance venue yet. Mine is a Roller rocker camshaft.Lobe lift .216Gross liftIntake .356Exhaust .355Duration @ .050 lift 188, SAE duration is 254[URL]http://www.mellingengine.com/Portals/5/pdf/pdf_catalog/camshaft-specifications.pdf[/URL]
Here is a picture of two 2.3L Cams from the back end. One is from a 1989 and the right side is from a 1995.I believe 1989 to 1994 use the same design, 1995 Ford changed the valve stems, springs, lobes etc. The plugs are obviously different from thread in to tap in. I think the cam gear may be different too. On the tensioner spring for the timing belt, I will say this, it is obsolete through Ford BUT if you can find one buy it! I have the part number somewhere and I hope to post that soon. I don't know who else deals with those or may have something that works but if you have one you believe is still good KEEP it.
Here is a picture of both cams from the side viewing the lobes and journals. Notice different placement of oil grooves and width of the cam lobes too. I have some rocker picks somewhere too.
this might come in handy... its for a 8 spark plug 90 ranger.. but it should be the same
i wonder if ford factory camshafts are different than aftermarket replacement cams...i am thinking the lift , duration and centerlinehmmm?the tensioner spring should NEVER WEAR out.. as it is ONLY flexed to when installing a new timing belt...other than that.. its fixed ... locked in one location... if you are worried about cam belt tension..with your bare hands.. you should be able to turn the belt on the longest span on 1/4 of a turn.. no more .. no less.. that gets it close...back in the mid 90s i worked at an engine rebuilder.. one of the assembly guys who had worked there for like 30 years was chasing a 2.3 around the steel topped assembly bench.. it was a long block and he was trying to hold the tensioner and spring back while he installed the timing belt with the other.. i told him that i could show him a trick to install that belt in seconds.. he denied it was possible.. when i levered the tensioner back and locked it in place with the bolt and slipped the belt on.. he was floored.. the guys around the block from me when i was growing up had a pinto 2300.. they kept breaking cam snouts and wiping out the tensioner bearings... they used probably a 3 foot crow bar to move the tensioner into the belt to get it really really tight.. wow.. sounded cool also.. that supercharger whirring noise for a day or two before it failed again.. worst ones to tension that i have run across are the daewoo/chevy dohc small 4 cylinder motors.. you have to have or create a special tool to rotate the water pump while watching the back of the tensioner plastic scale while using a mirror and a flashlight to get it just right... or it will rip everything apart and bend most of the valves.. yep.. thats a 30K inspection and a 60K replacement belt..
A pry bar? lol that is hilarious Wayne.If they never wear out, I guess I have 2 springs that are good, but, its always nice to keep something on hand that is known as obsolete @ FOMOCO. I know EVERY auto parts store CAN'T get them, I had to go through that when I bought up my tensioner assembly etc. Thanks for the wiring, my 1989 is a 8 plug as well. I will have to check some of my books in my library to see if I see any factory specs. I know there is something somewhere in my collection of tech manuals.Edit: I will try to scoop up some cam specs from my Chiltons and motors manuals when I can.
measure the cam lobes.... width vs height..for duration.. do you have a spare cam sprocket?? or a spare head.. even if its NOT usable.. other than for a degreeing stand..so you have weak valve springs on the first 2 valves... the cams slide in.. the cam followers go in on the first 2... degree wheel... all thread legs thru the head bolt holes.. so you can turn it over.. indicators riding against the valve faces.. you may have to rob some adjusters off a 2.0.. and thread that junk head... as the duration on 2.3s is measured differently as the LOBE WIPES across the cam follower.. well.. if you have roller followers.. that would be different.. might be able to crack open the valve lifters.. and use a spring that is just slightly firmer than the weak valve springs. to the valve opens.. or.. perhaps .. just some worm gear type hose clamps on the stem of the lifter to prevent it from moving but still allow adjustment to zero the lash..