would putting double bump stops in the front and right rear make the car faster through the corner since it wouldnt have much body roll?
If you can, use bump stops and adjust your camber and caster to the point of making the car steer itself and you can focus on other things than trying to force the car to turn. Also view weight transfer in addition to what you are wanting to do.
that brilliant..makes total sense..i can envision this...camber is the leaning in or out at the top of the tire...caster is the lower ball joint being forward or rearward of the upper ball joint.. so when turning the top of the tire leans outward into the turn on that side.. when turning that direction..let me explain how it works on a street alignment.. and my settings knowledge are OLD SCHOOL.. mid 60s thru mid 80s GM cars camber.. usually 1/2 positive left.. 1/4 positive right.. this is the top of the left tire leaning out slightly farther than the right.. to it counteracts the crown on the road.. keeps the car going straight down most streets..... since one is cornering at speed... the banking of the track and the angle of the surface is going to effect the camber... angle of the surface is not the banking angle.. but is the center of the track worn down so its like a bowl... or is it raised like a crown in the road... asphalt tracks will be straight. dirt tracks can vary..so... more camber on the left will pull you thru the corner.. depending on the model.. please verify if you are front wheel drive that you have not pulled the inner CV joint out toward the outer edge of the tulip.. where it can come out and jump around instead of transferring torque..lets talk about the caster...how this works.. the upper ball joint behind the upper ball joint this lifts the car between the tires..causes the steering to RECENTER.. if you have less caster on the right side.. the car should drift to the left.. which should keep you going around the track corners.. this will take some trial and error just like all teams go thru... and invest at least in some turn table plates.. or grease and sheet metal squares.. don't forget that you want to cut the ears of the upper plate.. \-/ with 20 degrees off the front and 20 degrees off the back.. so you know just how far to turn the wheel to check the caster..and some kind of fairly accurate wheel alignment gauge.. but also one of the neat digital angle finders... so you can stick it on and record angles easily.. one will also need a 5 or 6 foot straight edge to make sure the area you are measuring is dead level...somebody who is very creative could also use a pair of carpenters squares.. mounted on a pair of 2x4s.. with some forethought.. to be able to measure toe in.. easily.. perhaps some simpson strong tie 4x4 brackets to hold them together.. so you can slide them together or apart ..