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Radiator Selection

Davidw2340 Davidw2340
I watched NASCAR once | Posts: 3 | Joined: 05/12
Posted: 05/21/12
06:21 AM

Hi. I'm having trouble selecting a radiator. First let me tell you a little about the motor combo / class and the track I (will be)run the car on. The class is B-Stock (a step up from bombers).I run a 360 Mopar engine in a 1970 Duster, ~9.7:1 cr, Indy RHS LA-X steel heads,Edlebrock rpm peformer airgap intake, hedders, hydraulic flat tappet camshaft.The motor will be running 114 octane klotz race gas.I will be turning the motor 5500 - 6000rpm (according to cam & intake selection, the gear, and the tire rollout).The track is 1/8th mile, with 15-20 lap races.

I really want to focus on cooling. I've already modified my mopar water pump to prevent as much cavitation as possible.At any rate, what is a good aluminum radiator to use? Is dual core, single pass good? Or what should I be using? Cost isn't an issue unless it really gets out of hand.I'm looking to spend 200-300$.I want to keep this motor sub 190* if possible.In other words, I don't want to EVER worry about cooling.

Any brand / radiator type suggestions would be helpful, before I make an unwise decision.


pepsi1 pepsi1
I’ve been to a few races | Posts: 72 | Joined: 09/11
Posted: 05/22/12
09:49 PM

If your using electric fans make sure they are sucking the air through the radiator, not visa/versa.

I would run a High Flow 180* Thermostat With a 16lb Cap. Don't use those washer (Disc) type restrictors. (They don't work)...

If you run the Water Pump speed Too Fast that's when they cavitate.(Then cause problems with overheating,and you will think there is another problem)?

Stay with the stock speed at the water pump, and then adjust it if needed....

Make sure you run a fan shroud you want to funnel the air through the radiator.

Look at the specs and size of a radiator for a Hemi. See if it will fit in your opening.They did install them in the Duster chassis'.

Go to Jeg's and Look at Be-Cool Hard Core Racing radiators. They are under $300.00.

I would if you can install your water temp gauge in the intake manifold. You can always drill and tap to accomedate the water gauge thread size. NOTE:If you install it in the head you will see temperatures 20* to 30* higher... Confused

Install a big enough overflow recovery can, and get as much air out as you can. FYI: Fill the cooling system,then let it cool down. Recheck, and add coolant as needed.

Let it sit overnight before your going to run,and then check the coolant. If it's an inch down from the top your fine.

Don't fill the overflow recovery can. You will probably dump some out during a race, into the recovery can. Grin  Cool

It seems like a lot,to read,but it's basiclly all common sense. Good Luck...


Davidw2340 Davidw2340
I watched NASCAR once | Posts: 3 | Joined: 05/12
Posted: 05/25/12
12:24 AM

Yeah I'm running a 1:1 pulley ratio. I've chosen a Becool dual core single pass radiator and have fabbed up a good aluminum shroud.Also I don't run a thermostat. I think i'll be ok. i've modified my water pump by fabbing up an aluminum plate for the back, around the impeller, aswell as some clearancing on the timing cover.This will eleminate any cavitation under higher rpm.

Thanks for the reply. Didn't know exactly what radiator to go with but the guys at becool had the answers! haha


waynep71222 waynep71222
I watched NASCAR once | Posts: 17 | Joined: 04/12
Posted: 05/25/12
07:49 PM

a thermostat keeps the water circulating in the block and heads. then back through the slightly smaller bypass hose and around again and again. stabilizing the internal engine temps... while the stopped water in the radiator is cooled off...

the water pump at race speeds creating flow against the closed thermostat and smaller bypass hose also creates additional mechanical water pressure in the block and heads raising the boiling point of the water tremendously..

there is also the issue of the lack of a thermostat or even with a restrictor.. of the water pump at race speeds creating so much flow the water cannot be cooled..  the flow and pressure build up can expand the oval tubes in the radiator and crush the fins between them removing any chance of air flowing through and cooling them.. once expanded.. they won't shrink back into shape..  

pepsi1 pepsi1
I’ve been to a few races | Posts: 72 | Joined: 09/11
Posted: 05/26/12
07:18 PM

You deffinently need a way to cool the coolant.
As I suggested 180* thermostat I would start there. If your water temperature is 210* at the end of a race or qualifying run then you should be ok. Not running a Thermostat creates problems as Wayne stated. Remember we are only here for advice what you do is your decision. No thermostat you also run the risk of colapsing an upper radiator hose and when that happens you stop water from flowing..Good Luck..  

mayanne mayanne
I watched NASCAR once | Posts: 1 | Joined: 12/12
Posted: 12/17/12
04:55 PM

Hi guys,, Thank for the nice review..  

oncea3fan oncea3fan
I watched NASCAR once | Posts: 5 | Joined: 12/12
Posted: 12/18/12
04:23 PM

I never had any luck with a therostat, once I put in a restrictor disc , never had another problem. if the thero opens up it won't close til the temp dropps back down, but under race codition the temp wont drop and the water will pass through the rad to fast, and not get a chance to cool.  

pepsi1 pepsi1
I’ve been to a few races | Posts: 72 | Joined: 09/11
Posted: 12/22/12
07:30 AM

You really need to get a high quality thermostat. Robert Shaw has a fail safe that also has a high flow rating when open..    
  If a disc works for you then its the answer to your problems. My 2 cents.