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Kia Sephia 1/3 mi. setup help

  
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Kia Sephia 1/3 mi. setup help

 
tat2butch37 tat2butch37
I watched NASCAR once | Posts: 6 | Joined: 02/10
Posted: 06/12/10
10:01 PM

I just bought a 2000 Kia Sephia that I plan to race in the flyin'4 division at Unity (Maine) Raceway next year, and I was wondering if anyone could help me with a basic chassis setup.  

 
Fahlin_Racing Fahlin_Racing
I’ve been to a few races | Posts: 60 | Joined: 06/10
Posted: 06/19/10
06:32 PM

I guess you have posted already!

How much bank angle does track have?

What are the regulations pertaining to suspension?

What are the tire regulations?

One thing, I would get information on is alignment specifications so you have that basic factory setup as a starting point. Adjusting caster, camber and toe are similar to a full-frame, albeit, you have shock/strut towers which you physically push and pull to put into position and tighten to lock into the desired angle. Opposed to loosening upper A-arms and sliding in or removing shims. It is a bit tougher than the 'old tech' A-arms I think as far as adjustment goes. I am not sure how strong the shock mounts are, you will just find out while racing.  

 
tat2butch37 tat2butch37
I watched NASCAR once | Posts: 6 | Joined: 02/10
Posted: 06/20/10
03:09 AM

Ride height will be no lower than 5” to the lowest point of the frame. NO RACING SPRINGS. Cutting and heating stock springs to achieve ride height only. Same diameter spring wire must be used from left to right. No more then one spring rubber or booster per wheel. No Bump Stops allowed.

Tires and Wheels
Any 60 series radial with minimum DOT 300 Treadwear rating only.

Treadwear must be stamped on casing. NO EXCEPTIONS!

1” Tire tip on left front and 2” Tire tip on right front allowed.

Wheel size must be stock for vehicle. Steel or aluminum wheels only. Centered wheels allowed. Maximum tread width of seven inches allowed on tires. One tire size different from side to side(Ex: 195 inside and 205 on outside). No recaps. No liquid filled. Air filled only. No Goodyear Eagles allowed. All hubcaps must be removed. 104” or less wheelbase will be allowed.  

 
tat2butch37 tat2butch37
I watched NASCAR once | Posts: 6 | Joined: 02/10
Posted: 06/20/10
03:15 AM

I don't know the bank angle, I'll try to find out. Next year would be my first year racing there providing I can afford to get this car ready by then. Any advice or help would be appreciated,thanks.  

 
Fahlin_Racing Fahlin_Racing
I’ve been to a few races | Posts: 60 | Joined: 06/10
Posted: 06/21/10
07:48 AM

Well lets clarify first that the car will pull to the most positive camber. Thinking this vehicle is light, the rolling action in the corners could be fairly quick, unless the ratings of the springs are higher than I think from the factory. What you will want to watch closely is how this vehicle rolls over and transfers weight proceding through the turns

Have somebody record video of the car while you drive on testing days so you can see how the car reacts in turns, entering and exiting, and straight stretches. If you want to get really technical, see if you can get some low cost alignment rack time and record the actual angles you set the car up with in a log. There is also the general bubble gauges for sale as well if you like. The video will help in your test & tune. I would not adjust caster too much, because an excessive amount in either direction (forward or rearward) will disrupt the forward driving path and make you work harder at keeping the car going consistantly in whatever groove you choose. Once you set the the camber, I would mark that spot (on the shock tower top side) with something permanent if possible so you know where it is in the future.

With the 60 series tires you actually have less side wall to allow flexing (than other tire models) which will effect your contact patch quality with high camber angles. If you ever ran a car with 70 series tires you should notice a slight difference. If they do in fact allow you to run 2" of camber, which equates to 8 degrees of camber, you shouldn't just jump to that amount. The video, if you decide to go forth with, will give you a picture of what you can do to tune you 'roll product', by that I mean the ending contact patch of the tire in the turn. Too little camber will end up riding your tire's outside edge in the turn and too much may very well only utilize the inside half of the tire tread. Both do not have 100% tire grip. This position effects straight away traction as well. You have to consider your speed coming into the corners too, the more speed the more you roll & transfer weight when making a turn. Not to mention the inertia you have traveling will effect turning as well especially if the tread is not in contact fully with the track. Your left front tire will be closer to the straight up position, if you can lean the wheel outward, this will improve turning quality. One thing I remember with the left front on my sister's 1981 Cutlass, the best we could do was almost straight up wheel stance, when you turn left, the left side will begin to tip inward as the car rolls to the right side and therefore the inboard area of the tire is only used on corners.

One thing I would do is buy a completely new right front strut and leave the left front alone for now. Since the car is light, try setting a toe-out situation on the left front from 1/16 - 1/8. If you go too big on the toe angle on the left front you will just be making a power & speed sucking problem. Also, an excessive tire wear problem.

Does the rulebook say anything about the smallest tire you can run? P195s for example

Find out the recommended tire pressure for the vehicle as well, that will be your basseline pressure status. One thing I learned when we started out, word of mouth on tire pressures is not a good thing unless you see that person doing well, then maybe its credible. Remember tire pressure will dictate your grip even if your suspension is tuned to the best possible. There can be too little and too much pressure.

Does the track allow tires to be shaved?

If you like I can ask a buddy of mine about what tire he would suggest since he works around tires quite a bit as a Goodyear auto repair tech.  

 
Fahlin_Racing Fahlin_Racing
I’ve been to a few races | Posts: 60 | Joined: 06/10
Posted: 06/21/10
08:08 AM

I should mention, when I stated the 'baseline tire pressure', I am not intending the use of equal pressure at each tire whatsoever as does the factory for a regular vehicle. I am sure you are aware of that. But use it as a theoretical point of starting when adjusting the tires in your race prep process & practices. Once you get a feel for what pressures work best you can discard that factory specification if you like.  

 
cowboy14 cowboy14
I watched NASCAR once | Posts: 12 | Joined: 05/11
Posted: 05/18/11
02:42 PM

Try in google , i think that might help you.  
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