Metric Roll center

What is the best and easiest way to fix the roll center in a Metric chassis? In the past we did so by lowering the upper a-arm mount 1" and put the 3/8" taller ball joints top and bottom. we rewalded it after checking caster , camber , and wheelbase. It put our roll center 2.9" high and about 6" right after dive and roll. but is there an easier way? I once saw a guy but shims between the a-arm and the spindle, not sure if they were specialy made for that and if so where could I get some?  

I use full-size Impala spindles on my Monte.  Seems to help.  

I did help a guy with a Metric dirt car and we basically did just that, cut the mounts down, weld on a flat plate and reweld the upper mounts. Using taller BJ's or monoballs helps even more. He said the car turned better than any he had ever driven. Using the Impala spindles sounds like a good idea too. How much does it change the upper and lower ball joint heights Lickman44?  

i use camaro/ nova upper mounts w/camaro a arms and camaro/nova/impala spindles and rotors and get some 77 impala/caprice calipers--- you will have awesome brakes, look stock, can get a lot of different length a-arms. not to mention the spindles are SO MUCH STRONGER AND WONT  BEND NEAR AS EASY-- and with the taller spindles of the impala , the front end geometry is so much better, and u will notice a huge difference.(and actually u dont even have to change the upper mounts or the a-arms, you can use your mounts and arms, just have to use longer a-arm bolts and washers instead of shims and have a lot of caster/camber adjustment) i just change mounts and a-arms on mine for a-arm availability. i hope this helps, im new to the forum but am all about dirt.  

The best and easiest way to fix a metric cars front end geometry is to use our upper control arms that we are currently designing and producing. I race at Elko Speedway in Elko, MN, and own and operate Pacesetter Chassis. We use a stock metric frame chassis, and the only thing that we can do is move the upper a arm mounting points. However, the pad has to remain stock appearing, which limits being able to raise or lower the points, all you can do is basically turn the pad on the frame. We have created a new one piece (which our rule states that it has to be) control arm that will fix the metric frames antidive problem, roll center location and movement problem, as well as be totally legal. You will also be able to change your caster without affecting your roll center. When complete, your roll center will move a total of 6 inchs horizontally, and .5 inches vertically. No matter what everyone says on here, with different ball joints and shims, you are only putting a bandaid on your problem and not fixing it. Not to mention, our rulebook says we can only use stock ball joints for metric frame cars.

For more information, email me at pacesetterchassis@yahoo.com.